Installed easily, lots of room, almost an inch shorter than the 10ah batteries. Being this late in the season I decided to take the cheap way out and replace with the cheap, and easily available 12v 7ah batteries. The most annoying problem was that the wire connectors were also soldered to the battery terminals, required a very powerful soldering iron and see-saw tension to remove. Extreme care must be taken when reassembling pack, wire placement is slightly difficult-tricky, many wires and very little room. Battery pack comes apart easily, 5 screws, very tightly packed with 2-10ah batteries and several wires. Anything that loosens up add one of these and re tighten.Īfter 100++ charge-discharge cycles my batteries have finally given out, noticeably decreased speed after a couple miles. Next time you're at the hardware store buy a small handful of 1/4" "split" lock washers, 2 cents each. Cutting a 16D common nail should also work.Ģ. I found a tight replacement pin at local hardware store 3/4" x 3/16" approx. The pin retains a spring & washer, if still in good shape, lubricate with heavy wheel bearing grease, if bad, drive out pin using nail set or heavy nail. Press in the bushing-ring around the kickstand, this will relieve the tension holding the retention "pin" underneath the stand, if it doesn't drop out wiggle it out. Disassembly is easy, highly recommend large "channel lock" Pliers. A couple weeks later it wore completely through and "stand" was useless. When I disassembled it I saw that the detent pin was almost worn through. The first problem I noticed was a sloppy kickstand, after a couple hundred uses it seemed loose. Also, there is an auto shut off, if unused the power disables, you have to turn it "off" then back "ON".ġ. The main power switch is located at the rear of the rack, it switches between left & right battery packs, center position is off. Both modes are regulated by the throttle.Ĥ. "OFF" is electric-assist bike, electric power only when pedaling, power assist begins 1 second after pedaling begins and continues 3 seconds after pedaling ends, recommended mode for all but the most lazy. "ON" is electric bike, full all-time electric power. The ON\OFF switch next to the throttle is not "non-functional" as some have claimed. I found out the hard way, hopped off the bike at a crosswalk and released the left brake, the bike jumped forward, dragging me, because the throttle was partially engaged by my right hand.ģ. The front brake disengages the electric motor. Faster than 18mph it is all you pedaling, no motor assist, the motor turns but at a speed slower than the wheel.Ģ. Slowing down from 18mph at every stop sign etc. Keep an eye on the brakes, keep them adjusted up and check for wear. Charge often and immediately after each use.Ĥ. Use pedal more if speed decreases noticeably. This type battery is permanently damaged, (capacity reduced), by deeply discharging, and by leaving in a discharged state. The bike uses "Sealed Lead Acid" battery. Higher pressure gives much better speed & distance.ģ. Inflate tires to maximum pressure, it arrived with minimum inflation. File or sand all sharp edges, emery board works well.Ģ. Sharp edges on the left hand shifting control. OEM battery pack is pricey at $130, plus $20 shipping, from California.ġ. Batteries are easily replaceable just haven't felt the need yet. After 3 months, 2 -3 trips each day, battery capacity has finally degraded enough to make it an "electric assist" bicycle, I have to pedal some to maintain the same speed. I purchased the optional 4amp charger and reduced recharge time to 1 hour. 2 hour charge time, with supplied charger. I loved it, used it as an electric bike, used motor only, cruised at 16 - 18 mph on dozens of 3 - 4 mile trips.
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